I went surfing in southern Wakayama, called Katsuura.
This spot’s wave sometimes gets so nice like the wave in Pops, Hawaii. Unlike Pops, this is the left break. And like Pops, this has the long wall on the reef.
Typhoon no. 13 was coming towards Japan, but still the swell didn’t arrive at the shore.
Surfers in Osaka have hard time to surf. It is too far from Osaka to the surf spot. However, once I get there, because of the distance, not too many people surf. This time, too I surfed with another surfer, mostly surfed just by myself.
Nice small mellow wave for the classic long boarding.
This time, I forget to bring my wallet, so I spent 300yen, about $2.5, left in my car during the trip. I have been surfing in this spot about for 10 years, but this was the first time I forgot to bring the wallet…
It was a one-day trip and I surfed for 5 hours in one round, slept 5 hours, drove there and back for 9 hours, and ate 2 pastries. Luckily I brought a water bottle from my home.
As long as the wave is nice like this time, I don’t feel fatigued. Thanks for the wave, adrenaline, and canteen of water.
Check the Japanese site from Longboard.jp
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